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Sirbaz first Pakistani who scaled nine of world’s 14 highest peaks

Dhaulagiri, a part of the Himalayas mountain range, is widely known as one of the hardest peaks to climb due to its steep sides and bitterly cold climate. As Sirbaz achieved the feat, congratulations poured in for him.

ISLAMABAD: Mountaineer Sirbaz Khan has emerged as the first Pakistani today to climb nine of the world’s highest 14 peaks — each of which has a height of more than 8,000 metres. On Friday (Oct 1), Sirbaz Khan scaled the 8,167-metre-high Dhaulagiri mountain in Nepal, Alpine Club of Pakistan Secretary Karrar Haidri said.

Sirbaz was part of the 19-member ‘SST-Dhaulagiri I Expd. 2021 Autumn’ organised by trekking company, Seven Summits Trek.

The climbers summited the world’s seventh highest peak on Friday morning, with Sirbaz raising Pakistan’s national flag upon reaching the mountain’s top.

A few days ago, Sirbaz had said he was determined to summit the peak on Friday (Oct 1) morning.

Dhaulagiri, a part of the Himalayas mountain range, is widely known as one of the hardest peaks to climb due to its steep sides and bitterly cold climate. As Sirbaz achieved the feat, congratulations poured in for him.

Sajid Ali Sadpara, the son of legendary mountaineer late Mohammad Ali Sadpara and a climber himself, tweeted: “Lots of congratulations to Sirbaz Khan to climb Dhaulagiri . After climbing Daulaghiri he is first Pakistani to summit nine 8000 mountains.”

Sirbaz, 32, hails from the Aliabad area of Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan and began his climbing career in 2016.

In 2019, he became the first Pakistani to summit Mount Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest mountain at 8,516m in Nepal, without the use of supplementary oxygen.

Moreover, he summited the 8,125-metre-high Nanga Parbat in 2017, 8,611-metre-high K-2 in 2018 and Broad Peak, which has a height of 8,163 metres in 2019. Earlier this year, he climbed the 8,091-metre-high Anapurna mountain, 8,848-metre-high Everest and 8,035-metre-high Gasherbrum II.

On four of these expeditions, he had been accompanied by late Muhammad Ali Sadpara.

Sirbaz is aiming to become the first Pakistani to climb all 14 of the world’s highest peaks.

Before setting on the mission to summit Dhaulagiri earlier this month, he had said: “I am looking forward to his expedition and reaching closer to the dream of my mentor Ali Sadpara, who had the similar dream of scaling the 14 highest peaks, but tragically lost his life earlier this year during a winter expedition on K-2.”

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I am an experienced writer, analyst, and author. My exposure in English journalism spans more than 28 years. In the past, I have been working with daily The Muslim (Lahore Bureau), daily Business Recorder (Lahore/Islamabad Bureaus), Daily Times, Islamabad, daily The Nation (Lahore and Karachi). With daily The Nation, I have served as Resident Editor, Karachi. Since 2009, I have been working as a Freelance Writer/Editor for American organizations.

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