Nanga Parbat
KARACHI: In a remarkable achievement for Pakistan’s mountaineering community, five Pakistani climbers successfully summited the 8,126-meter-high Nanga Parbat—known as the “Killer Mountain”—within the last 24 hours. Among the climbers, two accomplished the feat without the use of supplemental oxygen, highlighting both physical endurance and technical prowess.
According to confirmations from the Alpine Club of Pakistan and various mountaineering sources, the climbers who reached the summit include Dr Rana Hassan Javed, Ali Hassan, Sohail Sakhi, Ashraf Sadpara, and Shehzad Karim. Their ascents mark a significant milestone in Pakistan’s mountaineering history, especially considering Nanga Parbat’s reputation for treacherous terrain and one of the highest fatality rates among 8,000-meter peaks.
Notably, climbers Ashraf Sadpara and Sohail Sakhi made their ascents without the use of bottled oxygen—an extraordinary and rare achievement on such a dangerous mountain.
Ashraf Sadpara, son of the late legendary mountaineer Ali Raza Sadpara, reached the summit early Friday morning. This marks the completion of his quest to climb all five of Pakistan’s 8,000-meter peaks, including K2 (which he has summited three times), Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, and now Nanga Parbat.
In a statement issued by Ayaz Ahmed Shigri of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, Ashraf was praised for his determination and his contributions to the country’s mountaineering legacy. His successful summit of Nanga Parbat is being hailed as a historic personal and national achievement.
Another standout among the group is Sohail Sakhi from Hunza, who reached the summit of Nanga Parbat at 11 am local time without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa assistance. His expedition company, Moving Mountains, confirmed the feat and applauded Sakhi’s unmatched resilience.
With this ascent, Sakhi adds Nanga Parbat to his previous oxygen-free summits of Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, and K2, establishing himself as one of Pakistan’s premier high-altitude climbers.
Dr Rana Hassan Javed, a plastic surgeon based in Rawalpindi, also successfully reached the summit. Climbing as part of an eight-member international team, this marks his second successful 8,000-meter peak after Gasherbrum II in 2024.
Prominent mountaineer Naila Kiani acknowledged his achievement and praised his ability to balance a demanding medical profession with his passion for extreme mountaineering.
Ali Hassan, a seasoned high-altitude porter from the Hushe Valley, reached the summit alongside Dr Rana on Thursday. Another climber, Sherzad Karim from Hunza, summited the peak at approximately 1 pm on Friday, rounding out the list of successful ascents from the Pakistani team.
All climbers are currently descending from the peak, and expedition teams are closely monitoring their progress to ensure their safe return. The successful summits not only reflect the growing strength of Pakistan’s mountaineering talent but also inspire a new generation of climbers to take on the world’s most formidable peaks.
