GILGIT – Four of Pakistan’s top mountaineers have launched separate expeditions in Nepal to summit some of the world’s highest peaks, including Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, and Everest, as part of their ongoing efforts to cement Pakistan’s presence in high-altitude mountaineering.
Sajid Ali Sadpara Targets Dhaulagiri Without Oxygen
Renowned climber Sajid Ali Sadpara has completed his acclimatisation rotation on Dhaulagiri (8,167m), the world’s seventh-highest mountain, and is now awaiting a suitable weather window to begin his summit push. He reached the mountain’s base camp on April 6 and has since climbed up to Camp 3 before descending to recover.
Speaking to Dawn, Sadpara confirmed plans to attempt the summit on May 9, climbing in Alpine style—without supplemental oxygen or porter support. The son of legendary mountaineer Muhammad Ali Sadpara, he has already summited eight 8,000m peaks, including K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I & II, all without oxygen.
A successful summit of Dhaulagiri would mark Sadpara’s ninth 8,000er in Alpine style, keeping him on track to become the first Pakistani to complete all 14 such peaks this way.
Naila Kiani Eyes Kanchenjunga, Her 12th 8,000m Peak
Trailblazing Pakistani mountaineer Naila Kiani has begun her journey to Kanchenjunga (8,586m), the third-highest mountain in the world. According to a statement released Sunday, she is currently en route to base camp, a journey expected to take about a week.
Kiani has already climbed 11 of the world’s 14 peaks above 8,000 meters, including Everest, K2, Annapurna, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and others. She is the first and only Pakistani woman to have reached this milestone and is aiming to become the first to complete all 14.
Sirbaz Khan Nears Completion of Alpine Style 8,000ers
Veteran mountaineer Sirbaz Khan has also launched his expedition to Kanchenjunga. Already the first Pakistani to summit all 14 of the world’s highest mountains, Khan has achieved 13 of these without supplemental oxygen. Kanchenjunga is the final peak in his pursuit of completing the entire list in Alpine style.
Khan summited Annapurna earlier this April without oxygen, further solidifying his position as one of Pakistan’s most accomplished climbers.
Wajidullah Nagri Sets Sights on Everest
Meanwhile, mountaineer Wajidullah Nagri has reached Everest base camp to begin his summit attempt. Nagri has previously summited several of Pakistan’s most formidable peaks, including K2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I and II.
All four climbers are not only chasing personal and national records but also carrying forward Pakistan’s growing legacy in the global mountaineering community.
